Feeder's Digest offers abbreviated versions of complete reviews by Tampa Tribune restaurant critics.

For longer versions of some of these reviews, please browse our Restaurant Review index or Dining on a Budget archive.

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Indian

Angithi Fine Indian Restaurant: Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven.

2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889

Bombay Masala: On a par with north Tampa's Taj, Bombay Masala offers fine Indian dining, with nearly a dozen vegetarian dishes, several chicken choices, five lamb dishes and a bit of seafood. Many arrive as thick stews with a mound of rice. Its moderately priced menu will delight those who have grown fond of Asian blends of ground spices - pepper, cinnamon, coriander, cloves, cumin, cardamom, chiles and nutmeg, to name a few.

4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511.

Mahal Indian Cuisine: A welcome diversion from the bland restaurant landscape on U.S. 19, this exotic place has lots of space and a cosmopolitan flair to its decor. Appetizers such as vegetable Samosas are served with Mahal's bright-green, cilantro-based chutney. Then there's tandoori chicken, which gets its red tint from a marinade of tomato puree and paprika.

25000 U.S. 19 N., Clearwa723-1117.

Star of India: A delightful dining room of eight tables, Star of India offers dinner and an aromatic lunch buffet that changes daily, but often includes classics such as Channa Masala and Chicken Curry. Dinner includes specialties from the tandoor oven, and on weekends, the restaurant focuses on South Indian fare.

11154 N. 30th St., Tampa; (813) 977-7827

Taj: The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces.

University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483

Italian

Armani's: One of the finest restaurants on Florida's west coast. Overlooking Old Tampa Bay and Tampa International Airport, Armani's offers twin views of sunset and takeoff, plus crack professional waiters and fancy linens. Along with delectable pastas and veal, Armani's is a reliable source for fresh seafood. Service is stellar and the food isn't far behind. It's easy to go broke here, but not necessary. For an evening of frills, plan on $130 for two.

Hyatt Regency West Shore, 6200 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 281-9165

Baci Italian Grill: Authentic Italian soups and breads start dinner, followed by such choices as flavorful pesce, aged provolone or a portobello salad appetizer. Creamy Tortellini Romana and Penne alla Vodka with bacon and tomatoes are favorites. Grilled fish and meatless pasta also are winners at this friendly Italian stop.

19040 Bruce B. Downs, Tampa; (813) 615-0087

Bella's Italian Cafe: If location is everything, Bella's has it made. This venerable Hyde Park restaurant features an affordable menu of Italian dishes made from scratch. Whether you're devouring one of the bargain pizzas or the Confetti Spaghetti, eating here is fun, and families line up to get in on weekends. The menu also stresses heart healthy meals, and desserts are essential. Larry the bartender - one of Tampa's finest - makes a killer Manhattan. Consider the outdoor tables.

1413 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 254-3355

Caffe Amaretto: When it first opened in the early '90s, this affordable but elegant Italian restaurant boasted a kitchen of magicians, and fortunately little has changed. Rich sauces, judicious use of herbs and creative techniques keep the locals coming back. A seafood favorite is the Cernia Livornese, a fresh filet of grouper with black olives, onions, capers and tomato sauce.

5915 Memorial Highway, Tampa; (813) 885-4700

Caffe Italia: One of Tampa's finest, period. Food, service and atmosphere are stellar, with a trickling centerpiece fountain, opera-set decor and exquisite northern Italian fare. Pasta dishes highlight the menu, with 15 choices to ponder. Favorites are the Penna alla Vodka, a flambe with onions, Italian bacon and tomato sauce; and Linguine ai Fruitti di Mare, sauteed with clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops and white wine. The Agnello in Salamandra are some of the best baby lamb chops in town, lightly broiled in white wine, olive oil and rosemary.

3114 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-0600

Caffe Paradiso: Paradiso already has become a slice of culinary paradise in south Tampa, as owner Cesare Tini's sterling menu and personal warmth invigorate the senses and charm the heart. A signa

ture dish is Involtini di Carne, veal rolls stuffed with Italian ham, egg and sage, sauteed in wine and tomato. The Pollo alla Sicula is a favorite, a simple but moist chicken breast with mushrooms, peppers and tomato sauce.

4205 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622

Ciccio & Tony's: Sporting a hip, young look, outdoor seating, wine bar and creative Tuscan menu, C&T's quickly fit the mold along Howard Avenue's restaurant row. Try the risotto cakes, brick oven pizzas, Tonno alla Piemontese, Fusilli Mare Verde and Pollo Ricotta. Affordable, enjoyable Italian food wrapped in a colorful atmosphere.

1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8406

Donatello: Donatello is synonymous with class. When the maitre d' snaps his fingers, napkins fly, water glasses fill and menus unfold. Mechanics between kitchen and table are as smooth as the sauces that grace the pastas. Entrees include a splendid veal chop sauteed in brandy, mushroom and creme sauce. The avocado appetizer delights with its accompaniment of tender, fresh, butterflied shrimp and cream sauce.

232 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 875-6660

Focaccia Mia!: Elbow to elbow, toe to toe, the denizens of south Tampa jam this joint regularly at noontime for jumbo sandwiches (on fresh, hot focaccia bread) and a slate of blackboard specials that changes daily. Sandwiches include the Macho Focaccia Sub with imported salamis, prosciutto, mortadella, fontinella cheese, fried eggplant, roasted peppers, lettuce, tomato, lemon caper sauce and mustard.

2602 W. Azeele St., Tampa; (813) 877-6967; 204 Morgan St., Tampa, (813) 277-0007

Il Gabbiano: This newcomer to south West Shore Boulevard quickly set high standards with its small menu. The cuisine is unpretentiously elegant, and dinners unfold within a warm, softly lighted atmosphere supported by courteous servers. Owner Ali Seghrouchi, a native of Casablanca, Morocco, runs a creative kitchen that offers such treats as Linguine al Pesto, Capellini Primavera and Medagliome al Gabbiano. Reasonable prices.

3671 S. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-0694

Kamy's: Executive chef Chris Zelinski's menu offers stylish, creative northern Italian dishes prepared with simple elegance. Check out the Tortellini Alla Panna, Bucatini with pancetta, Scalloppine Imbottite, or Grouper Arrabiatta.

2832 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 831-2939

La Terrazza: This partnership comes highly recommended: The owners of Tampa's acclaimed Caffe Italia threw their magic into Ybor City, and the result is a casually elegant, affordable dining option along Seventh Avenue that isn't beer and loud music. Order the Linguine al Pesto - the melding of pine nuts, fresh basil leaves, garlic and olive oil will inundate the senses.

1727 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-1326

Primadonna Ristorante: Restaurant Row continues to grow at a rate larger than some of its regular customers, and this is one of the best. Owner Cesare Tini has done himself proud with his new digs - a cozy villa with vines clinging to ceiling beams, an open kitchen, rustic plaster walls and softly lighted ambiance. Consider the Cozze alla Marinara, fresh mussels sauteed in white wine and garlic; Ossobuco in a luscious brown sauce; Capelli d'Angelo Puttanesca; and Pollo Val'd'Aosta with spinach and shallots in a brandy sauce.

915 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3358

Rick's Italian Cafe: Rick's serves up good, inexpensive grub with few frills. Try a cup of rich Lentil soup to start, which complements a spicy Antipasto and a dozen addicting Garlic Rolls. Dinners lean toward pasta, such as a tasty Angel Hair with Crab and Baked Ziti.

214 E. Davis Boulevard, Davis Islands, Tampa; (813) 253-3310

Sole Mio Pizzeria and Deli Co.: When it come to toppings, this tiny pizzeria offers some creative combinations. Specialty pies are prepared Italian-style, and bear names such as Romana (mushrooms and ham); Tonno Cipolle (tuna and onions); Quattro Stagioni (artichokes, olives, mushrooms and ham); Capricciosa (artichokes, olives, mushrooms and capers); and Rustica (green pepperoncini, onions, olives and capers). The menu also includes sandwiches and salads.

3201 S. Dale Mabry Hwy., Tampa; (813) 902-1222

Trattoria Lauro: Lauro Medaglia, owner-chef of Lauro's, has changed the name of his comfortable south Tampa restaurant. He has also cut the prices. You'll find Old World favorites such as antipasto, lobster bisque and homemade mozzarella. For dinner, choose from interesting pasta with luscious sauces, scaloppine, seafood, chicken and lamb.

3915 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 281-2100

Feeder's Digest offers abbreviated versions of complete reviews by Tribune restaurant critics.

TAMPA-04-14-99 1955EDT



Mediterranean

Ambrosia: You'll find Mediterranean-flavored foods such as baba ghanoush and hummus for appetizers, plus pasta dinners with roasted vegetables, pan- seared shrimp and curry-dusted chicken breast. And you can bring your own beer and wine.

201 Seventh Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 898-5194

The Garden: Amid the offices of downtown St. Petersburg, a giant old banyan tree shades a lush courtyard. There, in a forest of flavors, sits The Garden. Hearty appetites might consider the Traditional North African Couscous - not merely the granular semolina, but a stew of lamb, carrots, green cabbage, potatoes, eggplant, raisins and chick peas. With artist and writer round tables, bourbon and wine tastings, themed dinners and weekend jazz, the owners have cleared a special place among St. Petersburg's restaurants.

217 Central Ave., St. Petersburg; (727) 896-3800

Hellas: This spacious, casual restaurant has an attached bakery offering cafe-style seating. Diners are encouraged to stroll into the bakery area to select their dessert, which will be served at their table. Or pay for your dinner and take a seat in the bakery cafe, if you prefer. The menu offers an array of Greek specialties, from saganaki (flaming cheese appetizer) to gyro and souvlaki pita sandwiches. Entrees include moussaka, pastitsio, shish kebab, lamb and a selection of seafood and fish. After eating, stroll the historic Tarpon Springs sponge docks to work off those calories.

785 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs; (727) 943-2400

Yianni's Restaurant and Sports Bar: This Greek-Italian- American restaurant features a dinner menu full of tasty Greek, Italian and American specialties. Greek dishes include a spicy gyro platter (fries included), Grecian lemon chicken, mousaka and pastitsio. You'll also find spaghetti, lasagna, pizza, steak, ribs and chicken. But Yianni's best deals are the lunch specials. For $4.50, you get more than a meal's worth of spaghetti, lasagna, a luscious gyro-spaghetti combo, or one of seven other choices, complete with tossed salad and garlic bread.

5929 Memorial Highway (in the Bay Crest Center), Tampa; (813) 890-9059

Mexican

Cactus Club: Fern-Mex in Old Hyde Park. The Cactus Club by far has been the most successful restaurant to occupy the brassy, classy digs at 1601 Snow Ave. since the old TGI Fridays closed its doors at that location. Good, clean food, moderate prices and imaginative specials keep locals coming back. The bar usually does a big happy hour business. A fine place for a bite before the movie.

1601 Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-4089

La Calen~ita: An open trailer houses the kitchen where Carolina Rodriguez has served thrifty lovers of authentic Mexican food since 1995. The atmosphere is airy - the seating consists of three outside tables with umbrellas and one desk nestled under a giant oak on Busch Boulevard. Entrees range from quesadillas with chicken and cheese to gorditas de chicharron (fried doughy tacos filled with pork rinds) and flautas (tightly rolled fried tortillas filled with chicken). Tacos come asada (baked) or barbacoa (barbecue). They can be stuffed with chorizo (sausage), lengua (tongue) or pastor (sliced from rotisserie meat), plus the traditional chicken, beef or pork.

5005 E. Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 899-0786

Casa Tina: We find much potential at tiny Casa Tina in Dunedin, which ambitiously attempts Mexican authenticity and variety, plus nongreasy dinners and a decent beer selection. The menu includes Enchiladas Verdes, Enchiladas en Salsa Roja, Tostada Vagabunda, Chiles Rellenos and Pollo en Mole Verde, among others.

369 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 734-9226

Don Pablo's: Don Pablo's offers burritos, enchiladas, tacos and other Mexican fare in a festive, casual setting. The eatery also serves up some hearty, low-calorie eats, such as a spicy Classico Tortilla Soup, tuna tacos, mesquite fish and grilled chicken.

6001 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 882-3766; check the telephone book for other locations

El Pass-O Cafe: Having brought its Madeira Beach following recently to Tierra Verde, this restaurant improves a great deal on the simple tastes of Mexican/Southwestern fare. Crunchy chips, salsa, refried black beans, Mexican rice, lettuce, tomato and guacamole come with all dinners. But what sets this small restaurant apart is hearty ingredients, plus there's a house brand of hot sauces. Fajitas, enchiladas and burritos make up the menu. Dishes have special touches such as fresh spinach and mushrooms in the chicken burritos, feta in the three-cheese enchiladas and mesquite-smoked beef brisket or pork for the shredded meat enchiladas.

1120 Pinellas Bayway, #114, downtown Tierra Verde; (727) 867-6267

Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant: This colorful eatery is attracting a large

lunch crowd with a weekday special that includes two tacos (soft or hard), tostada, enchilada, rice and beans. The separate dinner menu includes beef or chicken fajitas, Carne Asada (grilled beef skirt steak), Mariachis (beef or chicken kebabs served on skewers with green pepper, tomatoes and onions) and short ribs.

4502 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-4096

Los Mariachis: Mexican food with home-cooked character. Named for wedding-party musicians, these restaurants provide lively music and fare worth singing about. Tasty warm-ups include Quesadilla Delujo, a quesadilla available with chicken or beef and mixed with melted white cheese. The puffy, hand-formed pastry around the beef Chimichanga reminded us that someone was working hard in the kitchen. The staff can take an order in Spanish or English.

1200 Cleveland St., Clearwater, (727) 448-0372; 9100 Ulmerton Road, Largo, (727) 584-9739

Mexico Grande: Longtime Tampa residents will remember five Mexico Grande locations spread throughout the city in the '80s. Today's lone Mexico Grande in Clearwater is slightly off the beaten path, but Tampa residents will find it well worth the trip. The laid-back restaurant features seating for about 50, counter service and a rather extensive menu, including tacos, burritos, enchiladas and fajitas.

1874 Highland Ave., Clearwater, (727) 461-3714

Miguel's: Good Mexican is hard to find around here, but this unpretentious little spot on South Kennedy Boulevard is a contender. The product is fresh, the kitchen creative, and the price doesn't sting. Nachos a la Miguel, beef or chicken, are good, as is the hearty Taco Salad. Miguel's offers five lunch specials for about $4 each, all of which cut the mustard nicely.

3035 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 876-2587

Ramon's: Anyone courageous enough - maybe foolish is the word - to order a Big Daddy Carlos and then go play tennis deserves a trophy. How about eating it for lunch with a full day of work ahead? We did, so take this as a warning: It's big, it's bad, it's darned good and it anchors the menu at Ramon's Fresh Mexican Grill, a hearty addition to Tampa's casual dining scene. Ramon's has been open on South Manhattan Avenue long enough to work out the kinks, and we found the food to be spanking fresh, reasonably priced and nicely spiced.

3413 S. Manhattan Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-8225; check the telephone book for other locations

Red Mesa: The menu here is surprising large, with enough options to satisfy most tastes. Start with Queso Fundido, a Oaxaqueno-style cheese fondue with rajas de poblano, onions and mushrooms; Empanada turnovers stuffed with sirloin picadillo, salsa and sour cream; Cedar Roasted Salmon; and Enchilada de Marisco, shrimp and crabmeat sauteed and rolled in corn tortillas, topped with smoked gouda creme.

4912 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (813) 527-8728

Rio Bravo Cantina: Critically speaking, Rio Bravo's food can bounce between hearty and full of blatant flavors to gooey and bland, but one thing stands out - quantity. And there are more winners than losers. A well-trained service staff keeps most people from getting cranky, and the sign out front that tells how long it'll be before you get a table is a nice touch. Definitely worth a try.

1102 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 877-4211; check the telephone book for other locations

Tex Mex Cantina: Forget that the dining room is as obnoxiously noisy as a mess hall. Tex Mex dishes up perhaps the best cheese enchiladas in town, pretty decent fajitas, and chips and salsa that fight for the numero uno spot. Salsa is zesty and chunky, and the chips are usually hot and crispy. At happy hour, the bar comes alive, good news if you're sociable, bad news if you're getting feedback on the hearing aid.

6415 Courtney Campbell Parkway, Tampa; (813) 637-8880

Tia's: It's the little things that make a difference here. Offerings include a wide slate of Mexican and Tex-Mex entrees, with classics such as enchiladas and tamales, plus plenty of Texas junk food that is a pure delight to consume. Recommended appetizers include Mexican Firecrackers, five jumbo tenders of chicken breast, coated in a spicy Buffalo- style sauce and served with celery and a rich blue cheese dip, chunky beyond belief.

2815 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa, (813) 972-7737; 144 Brandon TownCenter Drive, Brandon, (813) 681-7716

Pubs

Coach & Horses British Pub & Restaurant: Located a few blocks south of Tampa Theatre, this eatery is meticulously appointed to resemble a true British pub. The menu is a melding of authentic British pub food and American deli sandwiches, burgers and salads. Hearty appetites will appreciate the Steak & Mushroom Pie, served in a crock and topped with a large, flaky biscuit. A mildly spicy Chicken Curry comes with rice and crispy poppadums. Coach & Horses also has a full bar which serves nine British brews on tap.

511 N. Franklin St., downtown Tampa; (813) 221-7676

Cockney Rebel: If it's traditional English pub grub you're after, look no further than the Cockney Rebel. Wet your whistle with one of more than a dozen imported draft ales and lagers, including Harp, McEwans, Guinness, Newcastle, Bass and Fosters. The menu consists of half English and half American selections, including shepherd's pie, fish and chips and Cornish Pastie.

1492 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 895-2049

Flanagan's Irish Pub: This casual eatery features traditional pub grub such as bangers and mash (pork sausage and mashed potatoes), fish and chips and shepherd's pie. Appetizers include Chicken Curry Fries and a Sampler Platter with potato skins, stuffed clams, chicken strips and Irish sausage rolls. You'll also find imported ales on draft and live Irish folk entertainment.

465 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 736-4994

Four Green Fields: This quaint, thatched-roof Irish pub, with its island wood bar and homey atmosphere, wasted no time in building a regular crowd. The food is potato simple and unassuming, the people friendly and the music always cheerful. The restaurant's name symbolizes the four provinces of Ireland - Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Munster. The key here is what flows on tap, what we call the Holy Trinity of Froth - 30- weight Guinness, Harp Lager and Bass Ale, among other excellent brews.

205 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444

Harp and Thistle: If you don't like your stout thick as 30 weight, the art of darts, gregarious red-haired crowds or the bleat of the Great Highland bagpipe, do not go gentle into this good pub. The Harp is more pub than restaurant, but Cornish Pasties, Ploughman's Lunches and traditional Pork Pies are on the menu. Great place for cheap eats and Celtic camaraderie.

650 Corey Ave., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-4104

Hoppers Pub & Grill: Decisions are tough at this family-style neighborhood grill, with some 30 sandwich selections, more than a dozen appetizers, a half dozen salads and other entrees to choose from. Beer aficionados will be in heaven with a menu of more than 100 foreign and domestic beers, ales and lagers. A Hoppers specialty is the grouper, offered fried, grilled or blackened as an entree, sandwich, in a salad or quesadilla. Hamburgers are monster half- pounders, cooked to order.

3438 East Lake Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 786-3882

Mad Dogs and Englishmen: This British-style pub is breaking with tradition by combining good food with conviviality. Although most of the pubs of England are not noted for their fine dining, Mad Dogs owner Wilton Morley has found serving a well-prepared meal with a fine pint of beer is a winning combination. A special selection of fish, pasta and featured entrees is prepared daily with an international, but not British, flair and priced under $12.95. The beer list is one of Mad Dogs' strong suits.

4115 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037

Sunset Grille: This no-frills neighborhood tavern offers a decent variety of salads, soups, burgers, sandwiches and munchies. The daily specials are worth checking out, too. Try the seafood dinner on Fridays or the meatloaf dinner on Tuesdays. Top it off with one of the Sunset Grille's thick, heavenly milkshakes. Forget your diet and the frozen yogurt, you won't regret it.

2996 Ninth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 894-9207

Tampa Bay Brewing Company: An early American pub with a contemporary feel. The menu offers Ploughman's Board, shepherd's pie, ale-steamed shrimp, onion rings in beer batter, fish and chips and other pub food, as well as inventive chef's specials. Dinner prices range from $5 to $15.

1812 N. 15th St. (between Seventh and Eighth avenues), Ybor City; (813) 247-1422

Colombian

Sandwiches/Salads

Barrow's Gourmet Foods: This friendly, family-owned restaurant stacks up against the competition. In addition to an array of hot and cold sandwiches, the menu features soups and salads. There's also a salad bar with olives, beets, tiny pickled corn, peas, garbanzo and kidney beans, pasta and potato salad, and fresh and dried fruit. Catering is available.

3660 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 870-0950

Bread & Butter Deli: This combination deli/pastry shop/coffee bar offers a hefty menu of Greek food and pastries, along with Italian, Mediterranean and American favorites. Hot dishes include spanakopita (spinach pie), pastitsio (macaroni casserole), stuffed peppers, stuffed grape leaves and Chicken Florentine (breasts stuffed with spinach and feta cheese). Three or four hearty soups are made from scratch daily. Hot sandwiches include meat loaf, meatballs, grilled marinated chicken and chicken Parmesan. The enormous deli sandwiches are stacked high with roast beef, corned beef, pastrami, turkey, baked ham and salami. The adjacent pastry and coffee bar room features a vast array of Greek cookies and pastries.

507 N. Franklin St., downtown Tampa; (813) 301-0505

Breadsmith: This bakery, part of a Milwaukee-based chain, serves hefty sandwiches, homemade soups and salads. Most of the breads (and rolls) are baked without fats, oils or preservatives. Try the chicken salad sandwich ($5.49), a sweet and fresh blend of chicken, grapes and walnut. Ask for it on raisin pecan, one of the specialty breads, for an especially good pairing. Rounding out the menu are home-brewed coffees and fresh-squeezed juices.

3409 Bay to Bay Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-3939

Cafe Express S.F.A.: Searching for bargains at Saks Fifth Avenue? Have lunch. Cafe Express offers a variety of salads, sandwiches and smoothies. The filling vegetable Cobb salad is an appetizing blend of greens, blue cheese, avocado, tomato, chopped egg, green peas and croutons. The smoked salmon wrap is served with a dill caper cream cheese, and the vegetarian wrap is stuffed with tomato, avocado, sprouts, zucchini, cucumber and red onion, served with a Dijon yogurt dressing. Smoothies are made with nonfat yogurt and come in a variety of fruity flavors.

WestShore Plaza, eastern entrance to Saks Fifth Avenue

Carrollwood Cafe & Deli: Sandwiches are a mainstay of this cafe's menu, and you'll be tempted to try them all. Start with the Wall Street Reuben, a big bruiser with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on Jewish rye bread. Or go with the Deli Trio, a classic combination of kosher corned beef, New York pastrami and Swiss cheese. Chicken

noodle and Boston clam chowder are everyday staples, along with a third soup that changes daily.

11606 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 964-9008

Cherry's: For lunch, this diminutive eatery delivers generous portions at low prices, lickety- split. After dark, yuppies take over for high-octane high jinks and college-style cocktails. The hungry will be satisfied by the Turkey Mush and Roast Beef-N- Cheddar sandwiches or hearty, half-pound burgers. Most entrees are under $6. During our visits service was disappointing at dinner, but consistently quick at lunch.

1512 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 247-4541; 903 E. Bloomingdale Ave., Brandon, (813) 662-1500

City's Gourmet: This California-style deli specializes in meaty sandwiches, salads, stir-fry dishes, homemade soups and quick service. Try the Oriental Chicken Stir-Fry, chock-full of snow peas, carrot slivers, bok choy and chicken chunks on a generous platter of green, leafy lettuce. Other favorites include the Grilled Sliced Chicken & Bacon sandwich with smoked Gouda and the Homemade Chicken Salad with avocado, sour cream and tomato.

11024 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg (in the Winn Dixie shopping center at Bay View Plaza), (727) 577-6766; 514 Tampa St., Tampa, (813) 229-7400

Didi and Marc Zudar's Deli/Cafe: Open for breakfast and lunch, this is a neighborhood restaurant with a big city menu. Wake up with a breakfast tortilla wrap, bagel smear or ham and eggs on Cuban toast, coupled with brewed coffees of every flavor. Lunch features homemade soups, plump deli sandwiches and tossed salads. Didi's desserts are wickedly irresistible. We dare you to say no to her apple pie or cheesecake.

1818 W. Platt St. Tampa; (813) 258-3112

Fried Baloney's: This sports bar offers standard pub fare such as wings, nachos, burgers and sandwiches, but Fried Baloney's draw is definitely its namesake. The Fried Baloney sandwich ($4.25) is loaded high with Boar's Head meat on your choice of bread and grilled with your choice of cheese. Seafood lovers can grab a dozen clams or a plate of 20 peel-and-eat shrimp. Specialty items include everything from Caesar and chef salads to quesadillas.

8424 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa (in Ross Plaza in Town 'N Country); (813) 882-8120

Jeff's Desserts: With kudos to the pasta salad and Chicken Caesar Salad, it's hard to talk about salads, soups, or sandwiches when you see Jeff's menu. Remember the adage ``life is short, eat dessert first''? Jeff's offers 34 desserts, such as Nuclear Melt Down, Jamocha Almond Fudge, Double Chocolate Fudge Cake and other heavenly doses of sugary goodness.

815 S. Rome Ave., Tampa, (813) 259-9866; other locations: Carrollwood, Northside Square in Palm Harbor, Tyrone Mall in St. Petersburg, Lighthouse Point in St. Petersburg, St. Pete Beach and downtown St. Petersburg

Jimmy Mac's: Burgers, burgers, burgers. Get near this south Tampa restaurant, with its digs in a funky old house, and the smoky aroma of sizzling beef draws you inside. Order a burger - prepared in any of two dozen ways - and you'll want to stay. Live music and a lively late-week happy hour. Wood bar in the back, and lots of friendly people.

113 S. Armenia Ave., Tampa, (813) 879-0591; 5000 W. Gandy Blvd., Tampa, (813) 839-3449

Lonni's Sandwiches, Etc.: Positioning Lonni's near downtown Tampa's County Center building was a bit like leaving the sugar bowl next to the ant hill. Lonni's pleases lunch crowds on both sides of Tampa Bay with giant sandwiches on wild-rice bread. Choices include Mango Breeze (brie, avocado, sprouts and chutney), Albuquerque Turkey (with Gouda, turkey and chipotle sauce), Curried Tropical Chicken Salad and others.

513 E. Jackson St., Tampa; (813) 223-2333

Marsha's Luncheon and Gourmet Munchin': Chef-owner Marsha Bannister's small eatery is building its reputation on homemade food and fast delivery. The curried chicken salad is very popular, and often sells out by noon. Bannister roasts her own chicken, then mixes in apples, celery, curry and orange slices. It's terrific as a salad or a sandwich. The sandwich menu lists roast beef, roast pork, corned beef, ham and cheese, Cuban, Reuben, turkey and club. There's one hot entree offered every day, such as beef Burgundy, lasagna or eggplant Parmesan, served with salad and bread.

5802 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 879-0201

Mel's Hot Dogs: The hot dog is as much a part of life as breathing air, and Mel's - quite frankly - is king. Mel's dogs are created by Chicago's Vienna Beef Company from kosher-style whole beef cuts and contain no chicken, pork or soy bean. The beef is slowly smoked, so the casing ``pops'' when bitten into. Highly recommended is the Mighty Mel Hot Dog, a quarter-pound tuber on a poppy seed bun complemented with piquant relish, mustard and thinly sliced pickles. The basket includes a very good and generous portion of French fries, and wholesome-tasting cole slaw or oven-baked beans.

4136 E. Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 985-8000; check the telephone book for other locations

Off the Eaten Path: This place serves sandwiches, plain and simple. Of course, a ``plain and simple'' sandwich here isn't all that plain or simple. Or, for that matter, small. The whole classic Philly cheese steak (with peppers, onions and mushrooms) is a whopping 16 inches long. That's just one in a long list of sandwiches available at Off the Eaten Path, which specializes in cold and hot subs in addition to cheese steaks.

410 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-6244

Ovo Cafe: An eclectic interior, with a full bar and tall tables, draws the kinds of folks who read Interview magazine. Clean, airy, sophisticated but casual. The Ovo Cafe specializes in dessert waffles - most camouflaged by frozen yogurt, fruit and liqueurs - but there's wholesome food too, including sandwiches, salads and pierogi. The smoked Gouda sandwich is a great choice; the salads, fresh and crispy; and the stuffed pierogi, delightfully rich. The perfect place for lunch or a nightcap.

The new Ovo Cafe in St. Petersburg smacks of New York sophistication, with its martini-style bar, high black walls and ceilings, crisply dressed white tables and smooth jazz. The kitchen wins high marks for its Shrimp Bisque, pierogi, Pasta Pillows and 10-inch pizzas.

1901 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City, (813) 248-6979; 515 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, (727) 895-5515

Savvy Jack's: This breakfast and lunch spot specializes in gourmet sandwiches, hot entrees and desserts. Sandwich choices include the Beef Chardonnay and the Virginia Ham Dijon, both topped with sauteed mushrooms; the Turkey Jack, a thin-sliced gobbler covered with melted jack cheese; a garlic-pressed Cuban; and a creamy turkey pecan salad sandwich with a side of cranberry sauce. Catfish comes three ways: pecan breaded and pan fried, blackened or grilled, served with two sides and a hot biscuit. Sides include red bliss potato salad, coleslaw, broccoli medley, cinnamon baked beans, cinnamon spiced apples, Greek potato salad, garlic home fries and a vegetable of the day. Try the apple pecan pie, cheese cake or brownies.

11401 N. 56th St. (in the Terrace Oaks Plaza), Temple Terrace; (813) 914-8804

Schiller's Deli: This German deli ranks high for simplicity and freshness in its sandwiches. Favorites include the Reuben, with fine quality sauerkraut and corned beef; the Bavarian, with Black Forest ham and Swiss; and the Schiller's U-Boat, with its variety of German cold cuts.

4327 El Prado Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-6666

Schlotzsky's Deli: The kitchen offers 15 original sandwiches, many of which are killers in size and originality and served on an addicting toasted sourdough bun. Schlotzsky's is surprisingly inexpensive considering the quality of product and generous portions. Two can chow down on dinner here for about $12, and for people on a tight budget, that's worth digesting.

2558 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa, (813) 971-3354; check the telephone book for other locations

Sweet Tomatoes: Sweet Tomatoes sets a new standard for salad bars. Wonton Chicken Salad and Caesar Salad greet diners at the door of the Carrollwood branch, site of a former steakhouse. Ginger livens up the Wonton Chicken Salad, and the Caesar's romaine is crisp and flavorful. There's Tuna Tarragon, tuna and penne pasta in a creamy tarragon dressing; Carrot and Raisin Salad, sweet and fresh; Barbecue Potato Salad, smoky and chunky; and classic Three-Bean Salad.

1902 N. Dale Mabry, Tampa, (813) 874-6566; 14703 N. Dale Mabry, Tampa, (813) 960-5220; check the telephone book for other locations

Woody's Famous Greek Salads and Gourmet Sandwiches: This south Tampa eatery specializes in deli sandwiches, homemade soups and an array of salads. Sandwiches include the Festivale (turkey breast on a toasted croissant with cranberry sauce, mayo, lettuce and cucumbers) and the Bleu Max (rare roast beef with a blue cheese sauce, garnished with lettuce, tomato, cucumber and sweet onion). In the mood for roughage? Try the the Famous Greek, with lettuce, Greek potato salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, Greek olives, peppers, feta cheese, shrimp, beet, radish and scallion with Greek vinaigrette.

1722 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 254-2806

Wright's Gourmet House: The place to pick up desserts when you want people to think they're homemade. In addition to concocting the yummiest sweets this side of heaven, this crew whips up one of the best Cuban sandwiches anywhere. Hot entrees, served cafeteria style, add to a slate of sandwiches that are standouts for their fresh ingredients. Not cheap, but worth the investment.

1200 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-3838

Seafood

Backfin Blue Cafe: MBe prepared to wait at this funky, friendly cafe that showcases the crab - owner-chef Harold Russell cooks about 150 pounds a week. Good suggestions include the Backfin Blue Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, portobello mushrooms and a macadamia nut-crusted fish dinner.

2913 Beach Blvd South, Gulfport; (727) 343-2583

Beachside Grille: Like seashells, the brightest treasures are sometimes hidden in the sand, only to be discovered by surprise. That's the case with the Beachside Grille, a tiny hideaway along the coastline of Redington Shores. The place seats fewer than 30, but there's always a hubbub of activity at lunch and dinner time. The Beachside is famous for its fresh fish; cobia, grouper, amberjack and mahi-mahi arrive straight from the docks. Dinner time is when the Beachside's treasures really shine. There are four or five specials every night, along with a mouth-watering regular menu.

35 182nd Ave. W., Redington Shores; (727) 397-1865

Cafe Creole: Sidewalk tables, a frisky bar and a classy dining room make this Ybor City cafe an all-around pleasant stop on a Saturday night. Atmospheric, with its beautiful brick and tile interior, the cafe is one of Ybor's biggest nighttime draws. Prices are moderate and some of the nicest treats - an excellent seafood gumbo, for one - are the least expensive. Thursday nights feature all-you-can-eat crawfish.

1330 Ninth Ave. E., Ybor City; (813) 247-6283

Candlelight of Redington Shores: This is one of the better seafood restaurants along the beach, and delicious ocean fare: fresh, plump, aromatic and bathed in fondant sauces. Combined with a soft, European atmosphere and reasonable prices, dinner here is a smashing success. Consider the Italian Chicken en Croute as an appetizer, or Garlic Sausage Lyonnaise with julienne potatoes. Anything from the sea is recommended, such as the Candlelight Lobster and Shrimp dinner. But don't pass up the Pecan Chicken Breast, Provencale Chicken Alfredo or Chateaubriand for two.

17807 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; (727) 392-8001

The Crab House: Part of the Landry's Seafood Restaurants chain, these eateries are popping up all over the state. You'll do swimmingly well if you start with the seafood salad bar. It offers a bountiful selection of raw oysters and clams, plus cooked crab, crawfish, shrimp, marinated mussels and lots of salads - including tuna, greens and other crunchy choices.

20 Island Way, Island Estates, Clearwater; (727) 449-1940

Crabby Tom's: Catering to the casual diner, this combination sea shanty/sports bar offers an almost limitless selection of

seafood choices at moderate prices. Good bets include a zesty Caribbean Shrimp Pasta and the Flounder or Southern Fried Catfish Platter.

14404 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa, (813) 961-3499;

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