Succulent sushi on the Islands
By Kurt Loft
KODO SUSHI GARDENS SAKE BAR
BOTTOM LINE: Smart stop for fresh sushi and sashimi.
WHERE: 238 E. Davis Blvd., Davis Islands, Tampa
HOURS: 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Yes
SMOKING: Yes
CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate
HANDICAPPED ACCESS: Yes
CALL: (813) 250-1400
R E V I E W
TAMPA - More people around town are becoming hooked on the sushi trend, and it seems every month a new restaurant introduces another faction to the delicacies of raw fish. Of course, some remain skeptical about eating an uncooked sliver of salmon or grouper, and hard-core sushi and sashimi lovers flock only to the bars with the best quality seafood.
At the top of that list sits Kodo Sushi Gardens and Sake Bar, which since August has graced Davis Islands with its delicious menu, smartly designed decor and selection of first-rate rice wine. If the restaurant has an Achilles' heel, it has to be the service, which can be slow and disorganized. A few training sessions should correct this oversight, and help raise the dining experience to a higher level.
Kodo so far has bucked the demons that haunt this corner building: the Fountain Grill, Mojo, Native Seafood and a Jewish deli all folded or moved on. We can only hope the ghosts don't speak Japanese.
The first decision here is whether to sit in one of the quaint tatami rooms, at the elegant sushi bar, or outside under the stars near the trickling fountain. On crowded nights - and we haven't seen any yet - diners can enjoy a drink in the cozy lounge just off the foyer. Servers bring warm washcloths to freshen hands and face, and rounds of ice water.
Sashimi lovers have 99 appetizing choices of handmade items apart from the main menu, and all the fish is brought in fresh from Miami ports. Exceptional Nigiri selections include the Mebachi-Maguro tuna; Hamachi yellowtail, Tako octopus; Unagi eel; Suzuki sea bass; and Shako shrimp. Popular sushi rolls of six or eight pieces are the Tampa roll, consisting of fried grouper, onion and mayonnaise; smoked salmon; Negima, a tuna and scallion roll; and the Orlando, filled with shrimp, avocado, cucumber, mayonnaise and smelt roe.
On our visits, all orders of raw fish were translucent, clean tasting and free of any odor - essential qualities of sashimi. The menu itself is somewhat of a burden - too many pages - and could be consolidated.
We were impressed with the lightly battered tempura, such as the vegetable and shrimp tempura appetizers, flavorful without being greasy. The Chicken Tempura Dinner includes tender strips of breast meat served with rice, miso soup, a house salad and cucumber salad.
Some of the box dinners are a bargain, such as the Yakimono selections: shrimp-and-teriyaki; salmon-teriyaki; and pork-shogayiki. The kitchen makes two creative children's dinners that include chicken teriyaki, rice, fruit and ice cream.
Our good friend and sake lover Thom insists that Kodo stocks one of the area's best sake bars, with prices to match the quality of these distinctive fermented rice wines.
If the restaurant can polish its service, Kodo should build a solid reputation as one of the better sushi restaurants in the area. Dinner for two, with appetizers and tip, averages $50.
Kodo Sushi Gardens and Sake Bar
