|
Barbecue with a Memphis twist By Mary D. Scourtes
B.F. GOODRIBS
BOTTOM LINE: Memphis-style barbecue roadhouseWHERE: 612 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: No
SMOKING: Yes
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
HANDICAPPED ACCESS: Yes
CALL: (813) 873-7427
R E V I E W
TAMPA - This restaurant has a Graceland feel, but it won't necessarily make you sit down and say grace.The King wasn't actually eating at B.F. Goodribs on our visit, but there was talk of sightings - probably another blue suede shoe-wearer having an Elvis moment.
What was sighted, however, was a Memphis barbecue influence, from Mud Island Catfish to Beale Street Fried Shrimp.
Lynchburg, synonymous with Jack Daniel's (sour mash whiskey), is represented in at least six entrees. And the bar pours such libations as Jack Daniel's Tennessee Tea, Jack Daniel's Tennessee Mud and Jack Daniel's Down Home Punch.
Nonetheless, it's a family place. Open about three months, the new B.F. Goodribs on Dale Mabry Highway relocated from St. Petersburg's Tyrone Boulevard. Groups can sit at wooden booths covered with plastic tablecloths, or on the small patio. The site has housed such restaurants as Po' Folks, Lobster Louie's Seafood Shack and a kosher-style deli, among others.
B.F. can stand for ``best first'' or ``barbecue flavor.'' Take your pick as you scan a selection of ribs, steaks and chicken, along with several combination dinners and a couple of seafood items. Fern bar favorites fill the appetizer side of the menu, such as chicken tenders, chili, quesadillas and three kinds of nachos (pig, beef or chili and cheese).
Since meat is its specialty, we started dinner with both poultry and peppers.
Buffalo's Famous Wings come three ways - barbecue, Jack Daniel's and hot - served in an 8-inch cake tin over tortilla chips. We preferred the hot ones to Jack Daniel's. The hot wings had a nice heat wave, but dialing 911 isn't necessary. Jalapeno poppers are tasty.
The a la carte Roadhouse Salad - enough for two - is a mountain of romaine and iceberg lettuce with red onions, tomatoes, cheese and the usual choice of dressings.
A best bet is the slab of ribs ($17.95 for two), with a hickory flavor that had permeated during the long and slow cooking process. The ones with a Jack Daniel's marinade had a slightly tangy flavor. Both needed a splash or two of habanero heat from a bottle at the table.
The beef brisket, which had been cooked for hours to make it tender, was a hearty feast.
While the sirloin could have been serenaded with a ``Love Me Tender,'' an order of fried shrimp was on the small side and the batter was gooey wet.
The usual sides are offered, including ``baked'' potatoes that come out with a steamed taste because they're wrapped in foil. But the beans have a rich bacon-y flavor and the place gets points for offering healthy sweet potatoes as an option.
Desserts are limited to just three items - the caramel cobbler topped with ice cream was the best.
Our server, while trying to be helpful, was a novice and seemed a bit overwhelmed.
Dinner for two runs $40 to $45 with all the fixings.
B.F. Goodribs
